![]() ![]() My more modern cars have no spark-plug wires to speak of, so I cannot test on them either. Unfortunately, at this moment I do not have access to my Aircooled VWs in order to test the timing light (my beetle is undergoing a restauration) and my Type 3 is in storage in a remote location so I cannot test the timing light on them. Some people claim on various forums that once you connect the timing light to ( + ) and ( - ) (and attach the inductive pick-up) the timing light will prompt you to insert the number of cylinders, but this is not the case. I have managed to search on-line and find a PDF copy of the user manual and there is no mention of that. The timing light is functional but there is one thing that bothers me, regarding it's use: the fact that you cannot select the number of cylinders for the engine. I hope is OK to post this question here in the general talk area as it is not directly related to a Vintage VW.Ī few days ago I managed to buy a second-hand timing light, from the Facebook Marketplace, a Snap-On MT2261, made in 1996, i believe. Posted: Sun 9:01 am Post subject: Anybody familiar with the Snap-On MT2261 timing light? Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top When I install my bigger turbo and a taller 5th gear though, a slightly lower setting might be ideal so I will definately revisit it later.Anybody familiar with the Snap-On MT2261 timing light? I think I will leave it at this and see how it does for awhile. Torque steer is more pronounced, it accelerates noticably faster and EGTs are noticably lower at high speeds. Power delivery is still linear but it now has more of that turbo-car kick and in a more usable rpm range to boot. Right off the batt I do notice more turbo lag at low rpm but this is more than made up for in mid-range thrust. Just getting back from a quick test drive, I am very impressed with the results. ![]() ![]() This gave me a result of exactly 1.40 mm which seems to be the upper range of what I had heard from a few other people and way out of the range I had ever used. I cranked my pump back to a strobe reading of 12 BTDC, unstressed all the lines, then proceeded to put my dial indicator on and take a reading the old-fashion way. Since I had been thinking about advancing my timing anyway, I decided to give this 12° thing a go that everyones been talking about. Whatever that setting was I got a strobe light reading of only 9° BTDC when I checked it today which confirmed my growing theory that all along I had been suffering from (injection timing) retardation. Unfortunately I didn't think to take a dial indicator reading before messing with it again, but I think last time around I had set back to 1.25. The engine had always pulled very strong almost right off idle, but quickly fell on it's face just past mid-range with egts always sky rocketing to an easy 1500+ with high load high rpm accelerations. I had only previously experimented with it in the 1.15 - 1.25 range. My dial indicator timing setting when I first installed the pump was 1.25mm. This is an AHU with a stock Land Rover 300 pump. The light even jived with the 0 - 15 degree marks that I just etched onto my crank pulley, so with fair confidence in my equipment and method, here is an overview of my findings. Thanks for the suggestions, I experimented with it a bit this evening and never could get accurate rpm readings above about 1500, but at idle my light seams to give very precise advance readings. you need to take into consideration the load on your pump when you check the timing, it's impossible to do at neutral, you have to drive the car at various rpm and load.īest to do if you have an M-TDI, is to tune an ECU in a way to be able to use it for timing reading only and with the help of vag-com log to tune your pump dynamic timing.Īnother way is to bench test the pump and tune it according to the curve you need. I've found the pulse adaptor does not work very well past 1500rpm, and even. ![]() To first find the proper curve you need, you have to look at how much fuel you need for your goal/set-up and how much time (crank degrée rotation) it take to inject the amount you want, and then do your calculation, your goal is to not to inject too much fuel after TDC, if timing need to be too advanced, then increase inj. Now if you'r into M-TDI, it's completely useless, since what matter is the dynamic timing at the end, and the timing curve you need will be very different from a stock set-up to a modified one. If you have an E TDI, you don't need it, Vag-Com do it for you. The pulse adapter & strob is only usefull if you have a stock engine in good shape and a stock pump in good shape, it can be accurate for the mechanical timing but not optimal for the timing curve, but close enough if all is in good shape, a good tool overall for stock or lightly modded IDI engine. ![]()
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